February 20, 2003

Arthur's Pass

Well, I've made it to Arthur's Pass. It's incredible. I'm on my way back to Christchurch, and Arthur's Pass is the most logical route, and it just happens to have some superb mountains and some reputedly good day hikes. It *also* happens to be raining.

The rain started when I was still down in Te Anau, on my way out from the Kepler. The Kepler is a well-know, 4-day loop in the southwest of the South Island. Three days in forest, one day above treeline. The only day you really need good weather is the day above treeline. I got it. I was very lucky--hardly a cloud in the sky. Views of the immediate valleys and the jagged-peaked mountains beyond. Views of the glacially-carved u-shaped valleys leading to large, deep lakes. Views of Te Anau, the town. That was a little weird. I mean, aren't I supposed to be in the backcountry?

I did like Te Anau, though. I took a down day there, just because I liked it. I got to see my first real sunset there, which I described in my journal with something like (okay, exactly like):

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The sky went up in pink tonight. I don't know what happened. One moment it was sky, and the next, pink. I can't explain it. I walked past a pond and the was pink, too, except for the white spot of moon swimming in it.
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It goes on, but my time is short.

I thought a lot on the Kepler. There is a lot of time for thinking when you're hiking alone.

Then, up by bus to Fox Glacier, which I heard was touristy so I planned to skip. I ended up going there to do a two-day hike called Welcome Flat, which has some nice thermal pools just by the hut. Unfortunately, it rained. Or fortunately. Whatever. To coin a cliche phrase, which some hate but which I think demonstrates wonderful perspective: It's all good. I hiked to the terminus of Fox glacier from town. My goodness! Touristy, maybe, but this place is amazing! As someone had told me just the day before, the touristy places are touristy for a reason, and you can't just discount them. Steep, beautiful, forested mountains, and a big glacier.

And, I'm out of time. Humph! Where are my coins? Oh, I've used them...

Posted by beth at February 20, 2003 03:23 PM | TrackBack
Comments

somebody give the girl more coins!!! i want more details on all those marvelous sights! beth, it's truly a challenge to be patient for the day you return home and we get to hear "the rest of the story". hope you plan to be here for a LONG time!

Posted by: wilma, mother of beth on February 21, 2003 10:35 AM

Hey Girl! Missing your adventure stories.....fill us in again soon. We finally got some snow out here in CO, so maybe we'll all have some water to play in this summer (if you come back)...What is in the cards for you next, still Hawaii bound???

Lata - Nancy

Posted by: Nancy Trigg on February 25, 2003 11:54 AM

Dear Beth-

Remember me? - your Uncle Bill's biking buddy. Bill told me about your blog and I have very much been enjoying it. If there is a cooler blog on the web, I have not seen it. Thank you for sharing it with us all.

Um... you mentioned the Dylan concert in Christchurch (better not tell MaryBeth ;)). How was it? I know I should be asking about lava flow and things volcanic, but, well, was the concert tectonic? Some say it erupted into the climax of his tour. I would love to hear your account.
http://discussions.bobdylan.com/thread.jsp?forum=2&thread=37869

Hope to see you when you are in Cincinnati next.
Best wishes and cheers to your fine proud parents.

Laurence

Posted by: Laurence Meade on February 27, 2003 08:11 AM

An adventurous one,you truly are.I spent a year on the ice...98-99....incredible experience...then backpacked new zealand for 6 months...solo.Cant sleep tonite so figured Id pull some ice pictures from the web.Unfortunately I lost a disc that all my pictures and letters were on.Kinda miss the southern hemisphere.The vally that starts with an "m" is the Matukituki vally.Think thats how its spelled.Anyways take care,be careful,and have fun

Posted by: Matt on March 10, 2003 12:47 AM

Peculiar travel suggestions are dancing lessons from God.

Posted by: Ingle Abhi on January 21, 2004 07:03 PM
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